What to look for in camp lighting and power

Off-grid Australian camp with solar panels, portable power and lighting

Camp lights and batteries are described with numbers that are easy to misread. This guide explains what the numbers mean and how to use them, so you can compare products on what matters for your trip.

1. Brightness: lumens are not the whole story

Lumens measure the total light a lantern gives out. More lumens is not automatically better, and the right amount depends on the size of your camp, how far you want the light to reach and whether you are inside a tent or cooking outside. A light that is too bright at close range can be tiring.

What matters more is control: look for dimming across a range of levels, and for a warm-light option if you want a softer glow. Ask which brightness the stated runtime was measured at, because a lantern may run for much longer on low than on high. Compare products by their stated runtime at the brightness you would really use, rather than by one headline number.

2. Understand capacity: watt-hours (Wh)

Battery capacity is often shown in amp-hours (Ah) or milliamp-hours (mAh). To compare different batteries, convert to watt-hours:

  • Wh = volts × amp-hours
  • Theoretical example only: a 12V battery rated at 100Ah comes to 12 × 100 = 1,200Wh on paper. That is not the amount you can safely use, because usable capacity depends on the battery type and how it is managed.
  • Use the manufacturer's stated watt-hour (Wh) capacity where available. If converting from Ah or mAh yourself, only do so when you know the voltage at which that capacity is rated. Power banks, for example, often quote mAh at the internal cell voltage rather than the 5V USB output, so a simple 5V calculation can be wrong.

3. Estimate runtime

A rough guide is hours = watt-hours ÷ watts used. An illustrative example only: a 5W light on a 50Wh battery would last about 10 hours in theory. Real-world runtime is lower because of conversion losses and because many batteries should not be run completely flat. Treat the result as a ceiling, and add a margin.

Add up everything you will charge each day: lights, phone, a camera, a fridge if you carry one. If you carry a fridge, include it in the calculation because it can be a significant electrical load.

4. Where the power comes from

  • Rechargeable lanterns and power banks: simple and light, charged from the vehicle, a solar panel or the mains before you leave.
  • A vehicle dual-battery system: WorkSafe WA's remote-travel guidance notes that both batteries should be in excellent working condition. If you rely on one, have it checked before a long trip.
  • Portable power stations and solar: flexible, but heavier. Check realistic recharge estimates for the conditions you expect, rather than relying only on a panel's peak wattage.

5. Practical checks before you buy

  • Is there a way to charge it from the sources you will actually have?
  • Does it have a battery level indicator, so you are not guessing?
  • Is it rated for dust and splashes? Look for an IP (ingress protection) rating.
  • Can you carry a small backup light, such as a headlamp, in case your main light fails?

We will add examples of products that suit these needs once we have partnered retailers.

This guide is general information. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions for any battery, charger or power equipment.

Sources and further reading